Zane Grey, the great western
writer wrote of the romance of life
in pioneer America from his cabin on
the Mogillon Rim or as he called it,
the Tonto Rim in Northern Arizona. I
spent time on the Colorado plateau
as well. Sure it is one of the most
spectacularly beautiful regions of
the world. This is the land of
Indian Kachinas or Indian magic. It
is a land of red rock bluffs,
plentiful antelope, pinion juniper
trees and the meanest rattle snakes
on earth!
The Tonto Rim is also a crazy
place where Navajo radio stations
hawk Thunderbird wine in drive time
radio, Drunks compete for leg space
in the dumpster behind the Safeway
in Winslow Arizona on a Saturday
night, a continental breakfast is a
microwaved frozen burrito at the
circle K!
It is here on the high plateau
which Zane Gray called the Tonto
Tim, and the maps label as the
Mogillon Rim - that I met one of the
most unusual people in my life!
Well here it is!
George
Salcedo and the Curse of the Flying
Monkey Lizard
The jet stream dips onto the high
plateau of Northern Arizona.
Temperatures drop sometimes to 60
below Zero. One of these freezing
nights on the Mogillon rim, I met
George Salcedo.
Chevelon is a logging and fire
camp in the middle of the Apache
National Forest.. Take a dirt
washboard road fifth miles to the
south of Winslow Arizona, the land
of Kachinas. The red rocks become
pinon juniper, the world’s largest
ponderosa forest occupies the former
hunting grounds of the Navajo, and
now the center of the State’s
logging industry. My cabin at
Chevelon, a small camp is occupied
year round by around sixty forest
Service workers and loggers.; Most
are Navajo, some Hopi, some Zuni and
one college boy Californian – me.
In the middle of the night, a
knock on the door revealed, a
Hispanic looking man, with a satanic
looking goatee, one boot on and a
tennis shoe on the other. A ripped
denim jacket with a Mr. Zig Zag
patch complemented a pair of cut off
jeans. A stencil on his jacket read:
"get your "shit together.
Enter
George, Salcido, from Morenci
Arizona.
George had just hiked more than
20 miles across Chevelon Canyon from
a logging camp. He had
to leave in a hurry. Had an
accident. Until six hours prior,
George was working for a logging
company. George had a
slight accident.: Evidently he tried
to start his camp stove in the
middle of the night using gas from
his chainsaw and blew up the cabin.
I leaned this was just one of a
decade of slight accidents which
followed George.
Without a
country. George is from a
Spanish background. Folks up in
Northern Arizona always like to
differentiate themselves from
Mexicans, and are called Spaniards.
Kind of funny when a person with
roots going back to the 1500s is
treated as a newcomer in a land, but
this is the way it is. Actually,
George is half Yaqui Indian. On the
pecking order of American Indians, I
guess the Yaquis are the underclass.
Like most North American Indians,
the Yaquis were nomads. They ranged
across the deserts, and when the
borders were drawn between Mexico
and the USA, they were on the
southern side. American Indians
certainly have troubles in this
country, but nothing compare to the
treatment of the natives in Mexico.
Today the Yaquis in the USA are a
people without a reservation and are
scattered all over the Southwest.
Most mistake them as Mexicans!
Reptilian
Encounter! George says
the problems began when he was
sixteen years old. While hunting in
the desert near Wickenberg, (A
rugged desert area to the west of
Phoeniz). claims he saw a
gargoyle—or as he described it –
a flying monkey lizard. Sometimes he
neglects to mention that he also had
ingested paiote buttons a powerful
hallucinogen. But, anyway, in Yaqui
culture, you see a gargoyle and you
are in big bad luck trouble!
Upon returning to his home town
of Morenci, (another God wful town
to the East of Phoenix) George says
things turned bad. He worked at the
Morenci copper smelter. Morenci is a
major copper pit city. In fact, the
city has already been encroached by
the pit and most of the population
has been relocated. George said he
noticed his luck go bad when he
accidentally poured molten copper on
one of his co-workers at the plant
while performing maintenance on the
cauldron. This kind of stuff happens
all the time, he said!
At the funeral of the deceased
smelter worker, also a cousin,
Geirge got drunk, grabbed the
microphone during testimonial time
and humiliated himself. Imagine a
rendition of Frank Sinatra’s You
got to be your own best friend in a
Wolfman Jack Falsetto! His family
disowned him. One thing I learned
about family life in Northern
Arizona is that half of every family
hates the other half. It is normally
a wedding or funeral where someone
gets drunk and grabs a microphone
and insults the rest of the family
and a war breaks out.
When you live in the frontier,
there tend to be a lot of funerals.
Folks tend to die very early out
there. Young kids get out of high
school and work for the mine or
railroad, and are placed in the most
dangerous jobs, as brakemen, choker
setters in the logging camps, and oh
yes, cleaning smelters. George’s
family was no different, except that
just about all of the Salcidos hated
George for one or more reason.
Mainly he was loud and obnoxious.
His wolfman falsetto got louder the
more he drank "You got to be
your own best friend."
"Each and every day of your
life!" This is the only song I
ever heard him sing. Normally
someone would put him out of his
misery. I saw one tall Navajo,
Vernon Long, throw George through a
window one night to stop him. It
didn’t.
George sealed his destiny in
Morenci, when he stole a color
television from his grandmother and
pissed off the entire Salcedo clan.
Not only did he steal the TV, but he
dropped it in the driveway! Six
moths after the gargoyle experience
and the smelter accident and
television incident, George was
banned from Morenci. In fact some of
his relatives vowed to shoot him on
sight.
Yah tah
hey! When someone
wants to disappear in Arizona, they
head for the north rim of the Grand
Canyon, or Kaibab Country. This
region is more allied with Utah and
you must drive all the way around
the state to get there. No bridge
over the Grand Canyon. George signed
up with a Navajo tree panting crew.
Each summer thousands of acres of
the previously logged forests and
range lands go up in blazes in
Arizona. The Indian fire crews,
including the one I served on, put
the fires out, with shovels and
pulaskis. In the winter time, an
army of tree planters descend on the
forest to re-plant. Tree planters
are a different group. They live in
their vehicles, many are elaborately
constructed into mobile tree planer
castles. They spend weeks in the
muddy fields planting trees by hand,
getting paid per tree. They defer
showers, newspapers, outside life.
Many like George are running from
something. Some just like to plant
trees! George was turning things
around, becoming a noted tree
planter. There is an art to planting
trees. The forest service will even
dig up the trees to see if they are
done right, and George did it right.
One night while travelling from one
assignment to the next, George’s
luck turned again, and the entire
crew of 11 perished from inhalation
of carbon monoxide from the vehicle.
George could never figure out why he
lived. I think because he was rally
intoxicated and maybe also used to
the very bad air in the copper belt!
Heading
South. What do Arizonans
do when they have worn out their
welcome in Arizona. They head for
New Mexico. George met up with his
old friend from Gargoyle Days, named
Manuel Luna. Manuel was a role model
for George. He was a veteran of the
Arizona penal system, mainly for
petty crimes, and had just been
released from the State Penitentiary
at Florence. Both George and Manuel
met up in the northland and
hitchhiked south with a Pakistani.
It is hard to believe that a
Pakistani gentleman would travel the
length of Arizona diagonally, as
most Arizonans do not make this
voyage form Points North thorough
the Mogillon rim, White Mountains
and over to the Gila Wilderness of
New Mexico. Somewhere near the
border east of Springerville, the
driver went off the road with George
sound asleep in the back seat. Luna
and the Pakistani, climbed up the
embankment and flagged down a car,
and sped off leaving George asleep
or in a stupor in the vehicle. I
learned later that the vehicle was
stolen from George’s former home
town. The odd couple conveniently
borrowed George’s tree planting
cash and were never seen again.
George walked and attempted to
hitchhike, and outside the town of
reserve, encountered an sheriff
vehicle with lights and sirens. The
sheriff passed and returned half an
hour later, and placed George under
arrest for urinating in public. Off
to the reserve New Mexico Jail.
The Land of
Enchantment. George found
life in the Reserve Jail a pleasant
experience after the prior six
months. Three square meals a day and
lots of friendly people. Six hours
after incarceration, the reserve
Jail was visited by the Immigration
and Naturalization Service (INS), to
pick up illegal aliens. George was
mistakenly loaded into the bus south
and deposited in the town of Agua
Caliente, Sonora Mexico. This by the
way is the home of the main Yaqui
bands. Upon returning to the Reserve
Jail, the sheriff was enraged to
learn that his urinating, obnoxious
prisoner had escaped. Warrants were
put out on George, and not a person
at the jail figured out that he
actually was abducted by the INS.
Return to
the North. A good tree
planter and tree thinner is hard to
find. George hitched up with another
work crew and made it back up the
rim to the Town of Payson where he
linked up with the UFO
abducted/logging foreman. George was
a good worker, just obnoxious. One
drink, he slurred; two he sang,
three he was in your face, four
drinks, he slobbered. Typically this
was remedied with a boot out the
door. On one occasion he was thrown
out the ide door of vn. Another,
thrown across the bar at the
White’s Café in Winslow. For some
reason, the Navajos hated George. I
always thought it was more than the
annoying wolfman routine. Regardless
of how drunk he became, how many
times he was beat up – he was
always on time for work.
That cold night in Chevelon,
George joined my crew, and began a
six month reing of antagonism.and
obnoxiousness. But, he could string
more than a half mile of barbed wire
fence a day when sober! During that
period, his legacy of bad luck
continued, and the Navajos were well
aware. One forester, did some wiring
on a vintage cabin and accidently
hooked into the super high voltage
line above. His feet were blown off.
The screws on his boots were driven
more than an inch into the concrete
floor. While fighting a forest fire,
one of Gorge’s compadres, sprayed
cold water onto a tractor engulfed
in flames, and was blown more than
150 feet away H lived, with just
burns, and got a helicopter ride to
Phoenix in the deal. Although
everyone hated George, we tolerated
him. After all just about everyone
up there has some peculiar way about
himself, or else they would not be
living out in the middle of nowhere.
Also, George could pitch a mean slow
pitch on our softball team. George
was a hell of a worker.-just stay
away from him after hours.
Hasta la
Vista! One day, George
went to town, and never returned. He
left all of his belongings,
including the get your shit together
denim jacket, and prized mining
boots with metatarsal guard. He
wasn’t in Winslow, and some said
he was incarcerated in Window Rock
on the Navajo Reservation. I hope
not as he was oil and water with the
Navajos.
Two years later, the George
mystery was solved – sort of.
While working with a surveyors crew
on the winding road on the Chevelon
Canyon., we spotted a motorcycle in
the distance, with a familiar face
and what looked like a man in a
turban. The bike was missing a
muffler and the two stroke could be
heard for miles. George downshifted
to brake and motioned that he could
not stop. Either he had no brakes,
or needed to get somewhere fast,
which considering this was fifty
miles from a Circle K, (convenience
store) this is hard to believe. We
heard the whine of the two stroke in
the distance, and could see the dust
cloud as he passed over the Mogillon
Rim to the White River Apache
reservation. (A place he was equally
unwelcome at). We wonder whether he
died that day. We found no bike
anywhere. His relatives in Morenci
of course were happy he was absent.
The UFO Abducted loggers knew
nothing.
Some of my old friends told me
that he re-surfaced in El Paso. That
is kind of the end of the line in
the southwest – next stop is
Ciudad Juarez, Mexico.
I wondered if the gargoyle curse
has a statute of limitations or
knows national boundaries?